cupied by the NASA launch site at Cape Canaveral.
Each stroke of our paddles makes an electric blue wave in the inky black water, punctuated with living stars like a watery Van Gogh world. Large ghostly beings seem to fly just beneath the surface and all around our kayak, eerily lit by a luminous silver light.
Rohan keeps track of us by our self-assigned wildlife sounds. When he calls for a count, each kayak replies with its own caw-caw, howl, grunt, or screech. Periodically, we gather around him to learn more about bioluminescence and other mysteries of the estuary. While waiting for everyone to catch up, we entertain ourselves by swishing our paddles to light up the water. I scoop up handfuls of water and allow it to drip down my arms. I feel like a mermaid drenched in diamonds.
Rohan says those glowing beings swimming beneath and beside us are schools of mullet.
“They’re jumpers,” he says, “and swim so fast that they sometimes accidentally land in a kayak. If that happens just call me and I’ll come over and help it out.” At that exact moment, a deep male voice calls out from the most distant kayak: “Whoa! A fish just jumped in our boat!”
Hollywood couldn’t have scripted it better.
In the first wee hours of the morning, 12 kayaks (happily, the same number that ventured out) drag onto shore, disgorging two perfectly dry guides and 20 mostly soaking-wet adventurers carrying memories that will last for years to come.
Important tips
Cameras and cell phones on the kayak? Nope. Carry nothing! Regardless of your kayaking skill, the joy of playing with the bioluminescence can soak your belongings. Plus, you never know when a glowing mullet might jump into your lap.
Mosquitoes were no-shows on our dry summer night, but an eco-friendly repellent is advised.
GPS? Forget it. Follow the BK Adventure website’s directions to the remote launch site.
The less moonlight, the brighter the bioluminescent marine life will appear, so new moon nights and those surrounding them are booked up first. Upcoming new moons are Sept. 25, Oct. 25, Nov. 23, and Dec. 23. The bioluminescent dinoflagellates are more dramatic through the end of October, while during the winter the surreal globs called comb jellies and other glowing marine life strut their stuff. Comb jellies use their bioluminescent glow to ward off predators. They’re not jellyfish and don’t sting, so you can pick them up.
Great stay
Many adventurers choose the close-by Casa Coquina Bed and Breakfast in the Indian River historic district. No two rooms are alike in the quaint 1920s-era inn with mysterious garden paths and the owners’ largely Victorian and eclectic collection of mid-century antiques and kitsch. Al Capone reportedly twice rented the entire inn for nefarious use during Prohibition.
The strictly non-nefarious, family and dog-friendly inn has a hot tub, electric car chargers, chocolate chip cookies, and more. If you time your stay during a rocket launch, you get a direct front row view from the second-floor deck. The liveliest breakfast table conversations center on the bioluminescence tours. The stars of our breakfast morning were the family graced with the personal mullet encounter. Visit www.casacoquina.com.
Good eats
Try El Leoncito Mexican/Cuban Restaurant, and check out my fave — Loyd Have Mercy, the Southern soul food kitchen that was featured in the Food Network series Restaurant: Impossible. Chef/owner Loyd Andrew is a pastor, thus the name. Visit www.loydhavemercy.com.
BK Adventure
Before settling in Florida with his wife, Sandra, Ram BK ran a global extreme adventure company based in Nepal. His lifelong passion for the wild and the charming style he infuses into his team of guides make it a super fun experience. The couple, both Florida Master Naturalists, also offer mountain biking, hiking, and kayaking eco-adventures in the Orlando area year-round. In addition to their famous late-night bioluminescence kayak tours, daytime, sunset, SUP, and raft options are available. Visit www.bkadventure.com or call 407-519-8711.