Two things: you can’t teach an old skeleton new tricks, and Sanibel/Captiva islanders are among the most resilient people you’ll ever meet. There’s no better example than Mr. Bones at Jensen’s Twin Palm Marina and Cottages. Generations of families and fishermen have flocked to the Old Florida-style resort on Captiva for almost a century, and after Hurricane Ian did its terrible worst, Jensen’s is back, without unnecessary fancying-up that follow some restorations. Let me explain that Mr. Bones is a skeleton.
Decades ago, the Jensen brothers set him up to humorously depict the kind of fisherman who waits too long at the bait shop for shrimp big enough to suit them. He valiantly took wind and weather beatings until he started losing fingers, toes, and then one limb and then another. His replacement didn’t reign long before Hurricane Ian took him. But today, “Mr. Bones the Third” is not giving up. He’s perched in the same spot as his ancestors, in his t-shirt and jaunty cap, hoping for some selfie-takers to pass the time while he waits for decent size bait.It’s been 2 years, 9 months, and 10 days since Hurricane Ian flattened Sanibel and Captiva Islands. As one who’s convinced that her DNA is infused with Sanibel sand and ground-up mollusk shells, it took me every bit of this time to summon the courage to revisit my sacred places there. It was hard but, inspired by Mr. Bones the Third, I went. Here’s what I found.
Octopus Love
Do not, I beg you, miss a chance to meet the Giant Pacific Octopus (GPO) who took up residence at the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum and Aquarium last November. Never have I fallen so in love with a creature that was not a puppy or a newborn baby squirrel than this magnificent, brilliant, mischievous creature. The largest species of octopus in the world, a GPO has eight arms, nine brains, and three hearts, and its arms at maturity can reach the height of a two-story building. Oh, and it has blue blood, which may account for its superior and maybe slightly snooty attitude.
How mischievous are these guys? Consider this anecdote about the museum’s first resident Giant Pacific Octopus, shared by the museum’s senior aquarist Carly Hulse with the Sanibel-Captiva Island Reporter in January 2021:
“Her arms are covered with sensorial suckers, (which) are loaded with taste buds. Tactile enrichment is super important because as she gets older and stronger, we want her to feel comfortable with us and our veterinarian, (so that) procedures are less stressful for both her and the staff. With tactile enrichment, I simply allow her to explore and taste my hand and reinforce this with some tasty salmon. Once, when she realized I was out of salmon, she threw her poop at me and retreated into her den. Just like a little kid, she was testing out her boundaries with me.”
The GPO is in the mollusk family. Its only shell-like part is its small, parrot-style beak made of keratin, so even at 90 pounds it can squish its enormous self through a hole smaller than a lemon. Among its other superpowers are its ability to change color and manipulate objects, like unscrewing jars (even from the inside!) and working puzzles.
After the hurricanes, a massive fundraising campaign exceeded all expectations getting the museum not just back up and running but even more spectacular than before, with more living aquariums, the enhanced Hall of Shells from its collection of some 600,000 shells, and thrilling new programs. Do. Not. Miss!
Need More Octopuses?
Well, who doesn’t? Two great options are back. Sanibel Sea School re-started its wonderful half and full-day marine biology-based beach and sea-life experiences for families, adults, and “sea squirts” age 4 and up. Adventures in Paradise offers the 2 1/2-hour Sea Life Encounter boat trip for net-dipping in the shallow grass flats just off the Causeway. The estuary is a breeding ground for tiny crabs, shrimp, seahorses, pufferfish, and even octopus.
Resort Perfect
Sundial Beach Resort is a perennial fave because it has everything: big beachfront pool, cabanas, poolside grill, access to bikes, kayaks, and other beach recreation, and delicious dining overlooking the gulf. Exceptional family activities include arts, crafts and games, tennis, pickleball, a fitness center, and spa. Right now, there are excellent quiet season discounts and Florida resident package deals on one, two, and three-bedroom suites.
Beachy Eats
Among the local businesses that barely missed a beat after the back-to-back hurricanes is Cheeburger Cheeburger, with its 100-plus varieties of milkshakes and sundaes, burgers, and iconic beach fare. Kids love sitting on the famous bright-yellow 1999 Indian Chief motorcycle that was featured in movies and Chiquita Banana commercials, and the perfect meal ends with a trip to the ice cream sundae bar atop a 1959 red Corvette.
Pinocchio’s Original Italian Ice Cream is back with its famous Dirty Sand Dollar, PB&J, and other flavors with an animal cracker cookie on top. A newer place, The Shack, rocks frozen custard and a vast menu of shakes, cakes, and floats, plus hot dogs, barbecue, and chicken sandwiches.
Which beach?
Bowman’s Beach Park is Sanibel’s most popular family beach with ample parking, playground, grill, and picnic areas, a super-wide beach, restrooms, and showers. A picturesque boardwalk to the beach crosses a pretty creek and protected sand dunes. Families with gear can rent a beach wagon at one of several spots on the islands.
RESOURCES
▶ jensensmarina.com
▶ sundialresort.com
▶ cheeburger.net
▶ pinocchiosicecream.com
▶ sanibelshack.com
▶ sanibelseaschool.org
▶ adventureinparadiseinc.com
▶ leegov.com/parks/beaches/bowmansbeach