Could anyone ask for more?
The answer is a big spicy Yes! — especially for those lucky enough to be visiting San Antonio, Texas, during the fall festival season. Here’s just a sampling.
OH, BATS!
Every night around dusk until the end of October, a flying vortex of 20 million Mexican free-tailed bats swarm into the sky hunting for their dinner. The “batnado” that emerges from Bracken Cave near San Antonio is so dense that it’s visible on Doppler weather radar. By sunrise, they’ve feasted on more than 145 tons of insects. The biggest bat colony in the U.S., it’s populated by females who arrived from Mexico in the spring ready to give birth. It’s a giant bat maternity ward and those mamas and babies are hungry!
Meanwhile, male bats hang out together (literally) in all-guy colonies throughout the Texas Hill Country. Among the best viewing spots is on the San Antonio River, 1.5 miles from the Riverwalk. At feast time, 50,000 bats emerge from their shaded hiding place beneath the Camden Street Bridge. Viewing at river level is spectacular, and it’s free.
STALACTITES, STALAGMITES, AND A BAT FEST
For a cool cave experience without the bats (except cuddly ones in the gift shop), check out Natural Bridge Caverns. The two well-lighted giant underground chambers complete with stalagmites and stalactites are easy to walk with no tight squeezes. Family-friendly above-ground attractions at additional cost include mazes, gold mining, and the Twisted Trails Zip Rails and Ropes Course. The free Cavern Bat Fest every weekend in October features trick-or-treating, a mini hayride and maze, and themed activity stations. naturalbridgecaverns.com
RIVERWALK BARGE CRUISE
A cruise along the San Antonio Riverwalk in a sherbet-colored electric barge is a must-do for first-time visitors. It’s a 35-minute glide along a twisty 1.5 mile loop beneath stone and iron bridges, shaded by ancient bald cypress trees and often accompanied by a flotilla of resident ducks, while the storytelling boatman makes history come alive. The barges run from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. The evening cruises provide sheer movie set ambience with mood lighting on the buildings and multicolored twinkling lights in the trees. Tourists love the colorful umbrella tables at Casa Rio, which opened 80 years ago featuring its “regular plate”: a cheese enchilada, tamale, chili con carne, rice, and beans. The food’s okay, the cost is affordable, and the view is the best on the river. Families celebrating a special occasion might spring for the ultimate: a private dining cruise catered by their choice of restaurants. goriocruises.com
DON’T FORGET THE ALAMO!
The details depend on who is telling the story, but what a story! Everybody knows about Jim Bowie, William B. Travis, and Davy Crockett and some 200 defenders (the “good guys?”), versus Santa Anna’s 2000 men (the “bad guys?”), Moses Rose (still under debate), and the very bloody siege that inspired the slogan “Remember the Alamo!” in Texas’ fight for independence. Because the Alamo was the first of the five Spanish missions established in the early 1700s, the recognizable bell-shaped structure of the Alamo Church, its grounds, and the long barracks with historic narrative are free to visit. Other exhibits and tours cost extra. thealamo.org
QUEEN OF THE MISSIONS
Three of the four original missions that lie about two miles apart within the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park are in partial ruins. The best one to visit is Mission San José, where free guided tours starting at the visitor center offer insights into mission life, and the forced assimilation of the indigenous people, including labor in exchange for food and protection. Indigenous labor built the Alamo. Dia de los Muertos is celebrated on Oct. 24 at Mission San José with cultural performances and costume processions. NPS.gov/saan
SUPERHEROES ON THE RIVER
On Sept. 26, the Riverwalk will be awash in superheroes on elaborate floats in the river and along its banks. Of the many Hispanic Heritage Month celebrations (Sept. 15-Oct. 15), the Rey Feo parade and street festival surrounding the open-air Arneson River Theatre is the most dramatic and fun for kids. Rey Feo (“the ugly king”) is like King Momo of Carnival. Costumes are heartily encouraged.
MUERTOS FEST and DAY OF THE DEAD RIVER PARADE
October on the Riverwalk is a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds, with music, food, artful calaveras (skeletons), crafts, and ofrendas (temporary altars) all month. The highlights are the three-day Muertos Fest at Hemisfair, Oct. 23-25, and the Day of the Dead River Parade on Oct. 23 featuring performances aboard spectacularly decorated and illuminated barges, plus stilt walkers, mariachi bands, giant Catrina puppets, and other performers weaving among the crowds.
AND FINALLY … THE SAGA: A MESMERIZING LASER SHOW
Every evening at 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday on San Antonio’s Main Plaza, a free spectacle of light, music, and animation appears across the majestic facade of the 295-year-old San Fernando Cathedral. Colors shimmer and dissolve from one scene to another, and before you’re finished oohing and aahing over one scene, it dissolves into something more impressive than the last. By the time the cathedral returns to its pre-magical state 24 minutes later, you will have traversed the entire 300-year history of San Antonio and Texas. Best history lesson ever! mainplaza.org/san-antonio-the-saga
Good to know
CityPASS: Families planning to experience several San Antonio attractions, such as the Alamo, Tower of the Americas, the DoSeum children’s museum, and GO RIO River Cruises, check out the savings at citypass.com/san-antonio.
Historic Market Square: Immerse in local food, Mexican arts, weekend music, and souvenir shopping at the largest Mexican market in the U.S.
Two great stays
Estancia del Norte San Antonio by Hilton is rich in Spanish Colonial and Texas/Mexican charm. It’s family and pet friendly, across from a major mall, and a five-minute shuttle ride from the airport.
The Drury Plaza Hotel San Antonio Riverwalk is walking distance to the Alamo. It offers free hot breakfasts and is a prime spot for parade and festival viewings.