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mermaid
Attention little mermaids, middle-size mermaids, and grown-up ones, too. The first known major gathering of mermaids in the Florida Keys is set to happen July 5-7. Rumors have it that mer-folk er-folk will be swimming in to Key West from faraway oceans for this super-cool weekend, which includes a parade, storytelling by sea captains and mer-folk, and close encounters with mermaids on land and under water. On Salty Saturday, you can have breakfast with mermaids on the beach (tickets required), watch the mermaid parade, and then enjoy music, food, and activities at the free festival. Sunday Fun Day has more free activities, and you can actually sign up for a personal swim with a mermaid in the glam Havana Cabana hotel pool for just $15. If you don’t already have your swim-safe mermaid tail, no worries; you can rent one there. Sparkly mermaid bling also is available at the Captain’s Mermaid Boutique, which is owned by an actual Key West almost-mermaid. Festival proceeds will benefit ReefRelief.org, which supports pro-active causes like responsible sunscreen, going strawless, and coral camps for kids. See the festival de-Tails (get it?) at www. keywestmermaidfestival.com.
Where to stay
My new fave in the Middle Keys is Tranquility Bay, the oh-so-adorable, lushly landscaped Bahamian-style resort at Mile Marker 48.5, just north of the famous Seven Mile Bridge. With its soft white sand beach shaded by tall coconut palms, three gorgeous swimming pools, a super-shallow bay for lounging, and a tin-roofed tiki hut restaurant at water’s edge, it’s sophisticated-casual at its best. Aptly named, it’s a tranquil family escape from all the Duval Street craziness (Mile Marker 0), yet close enough when you crave a mermaid festival or a conch train ride. There are WaveRunners, paddleboards, and kayaks for rent at the dock, plus sunset cruises and boat tours. tranquilitybay.com.
Next door to Tranquility Bay is the Sea Turtle Hospital, a 1950s-era motel turned rescue, treat, and release facility, complete with turtle ambulances and an operating room. Visitors get to tour the rehab pools with staff veterinarians and guides, watch turtle surgeries through glass windows and webcams, and even feed the permanent residents that can’t survive the wild. Bubble Butt, for example, has been happily swimming with his buddies in the huge saltwater pool for 30 years now. seaturtlehospital.org. Also nearby is the renowned nonprofit Dolphin Research Center (Mile Marker 59), which offers close encounters with a resident pod of wild dolphins. dolphins.org
Snorkel + scuba = SNUBA
Snorkeling is great fun, but don’t you wish you didn’t have to hold your breath to check out a Nemo or Dory (or a mermaid) a few feet below the surface? If so, and if you’re at least 8 years old, you might just love SNUBA. This combo of snorkeling and scuba diving lets you breathe through a long hose that’s attached to the special air tank float above you. All you need is a mask and snorkel. No experience necessary! Clear water and coral reefs are important for SNUBA, so the only U.S. locations outside the Keys are in Miami, the Florida panhandle, Hawaii, and Southern California. Tilden’s Scuba Center (Mile Marker 49.5), which is closest to Tranquility Bay, offers a four-hour boat trip to two different reefs, starting at $165. Tilden’s will soon offer SNUBA experiences in the huge pool at the newly opened Isla Bella Beach Resort (Mile Marker 47). tildensscubacenter.com; islabellabeachresort.com.
Do stop in....
…If you’re on wheels, the bad news is that the Overseas High-way is the only way in and the only way out. The good news is, no matter where you are – Upper, Middle, or Lower Keys – there’s a quirky roadside attraction, tasty food, or a side trip worth the detour. It’s hard to miss the Midway Café & Coffee Bar (Mile Marker 80.5). This whimsical little confection of a breakfast and lunch spot is all teal, yellow, and aquamarine, named for its midway point on the Overseas Highway between Miami and Key West. Besides breakfast burritos, Cuban coffee, sandwiches, pastries, smoothies, and such (vegetarian and gluten-free choices, too), check out the artsy gifts and gourmet items. midwaycafecoffeebar.com.
Okay, nobody simply stops in to the No Name Pub. First they have to find it. That’s literally their slogan: “A nice place if you can find it.” Helpful hint: It’s on No Name Key. The 1930s-era bait and tackle shop has had many incarnations (one of them X-rated), but since the middle of the last century it’s been an iconic must-experience pizza place with dollar bills covering the walls and fluttering from the ceiling. Bonus: Most of No Name Key is des-ignated National Key Deer Refuge land, so you may spot some of the teeny tiny white-tailed creatures grazing in the neighborhood. nonamepub.com
Stop in at the Key Deer Refuge Visitor Center (Mile Marker 30.4 on Big Pine Key) for your map to the Blue Hole and walking trails where you are most likely to meet Key deer in their true habitat. Best sightings are just after dawn and just before dusk. Note: Feeding Key deer is illegal. fws.gov/refuge/National_Key_Deer_Refuge
Last stop
Question: Where can you get real Key lime pie? Answer: Silly, silly question! The practical answer is anywhere in the Keys. You can get it piled a mile high with toasted meringue, laced in whipped cream, or stark naked, with or without a Key lime slice or a cherry on top. You can get it tart or sweet, firm or custardy, chocolate-covered and frozen on a stick, or even as a liquid in a mojito rimmed in graham cracker crust. And finally, the Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory (Mile Marker 92; at the tip of Key Largo) can hook you up with a whole pie to take home. blondgiraffe.com
KAREN T. BARTLETT is Travel Editor of Neapolitan Family. She is the author of 11 destination travel books, and publisher of the award-winning book, A (mostly) Kids’ Guide to Naples, Marco Island & The Everglades.